The stoked new surfer came out of the water, a massive smile framing his chattering teeth.

“It was awesome, it felt amazing,” said 9-year-old Ezekiel, his small body shivering from the chilly ocean. “I’m very hooked.”

About two dozen youngsters from the Boys & Girls Club of Capistrano Valley got to experience the thrill of surfing on Wednesday, Sept. 20, at Doheny State Beach in Dana Point, in a gathering put on by Dana Point Surf Club volunteers who wanted to give back on California Surfing Day.

The surf club formed in 2017 and for two years members held the lessons for the Boys & Girls Club, but had to stop because of the pandemic. This week’s event was the first chance they’ve been able to get in the water with the kids again, said club founder Eric Diamond.

“Even though the kids grew up five miles that way,” he said, pointing inland from the beach, “some of them have never been in the ocean.”

Diamond said he learned to surf at the same beach in 1970 – the same place his surfer parents met decades ago.

The Dana Point Surf Club called on community partners to help with the lessons, including local surf shop Killer Dana, which gave the kids swag bags with gifts such as hats and T-shirts to take home.

“It’s just really cool to be a part of it and watch the stoke on kids’ faces when they catch a wave,” said Killer Dana owner Mike Foster. “A lot of them are nervous the first time and a lot haven’t been in the ocean. Seeing them from when they are nervous to the end result is just super cool.”

There was no better way to honor California Surfing Day, said wife Carrie Foster.

“We jumped at the chance at taking kids surfing for the first time,” she said. “It’s the best part, giving back.”

The first wave of kids, the younger of two groups, arrived on the city’s blue trolley, giving high fives as they were greeted by surf club members, buzzing with excitement as they sifted through wetsuits laid out on a grassy area.

“They are so pumped up, they look forward to this every single year,” said Boys & Girls Club Associate Executive Director Nicole Watson. “We are so glad this came back this year. We have kids who talk about this event and learning how to surf all year round. It’s pretty remarkable. And the memories – we have kids who rode out there pre-pandemic and they still talk about it today.”

The kids expressed a mix of emotions before heading down to the water’s edge: excitement, fear, nervousness.

Before hitting the water, they did a few practice pop ups on the sand to get the feel of jumping up onto the board.

Surf club volunteer Callan Enery, 18, said it feels good helping kids who don’t get to see the ocean everyday. He started surfing at age 6.

“It gives you a path to stay out of trouble,” he said. “Enjoying the water feels good, enjoying it with your friends, being in the sun. Everything is good about it. It’s all about passing it forward to the next generation and getting them stoked on surfing.”

For young Ezekiel, he was immediately hooked, wanting to catch more waves. And he’s already thinking about the next time he can come back to surf again.

“I am going to tell my mom to get me a boogie board. And a surfboard,” he said.

Related Articles