For many years, yellow raisins have been a welcome sweet, chewy element in my coleslaw concoctions. I toss them in higgledy-piggledy, without the traditional soak in hot water to make them tender. Thumbing through Chef Geoffrey Zakarian’s cookbook, “Town Country” (Clarkson Potter), his coleslaw recipe caught my eye.

His formula uses golden raisins, not just thrown in, but lightly caramelized in butter. Imagine.

I like his method. The raisins are delicious, buttery and a little toasty, and they team beautifully with a ginger-spiked dressing. Zakarian suggests that the slaw partners best with a good burger. Due to the tender nature of Savoy cabbage, he advises making it no more than 1 to 2 hours in advance, just long enough to chill.

Gingered Coleslaw with Golden Raisins

Yield: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

About 3/4 of a small head of Savoy cabbage, quartered, cored

1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, finely minced (about 1 1/2 teaspoons)

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar, plus more if needed

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

Salt and pepper to taste

2/3 cup shredded peeled carrot

1 tablespoon butter

1/4 cup yellow (golden) raisins

DIRECTIONS

1. Shred the cored cabbage quarters. You will need about 6 cups. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, combine ginger, garlic, mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper. Stir to combine. Taste and add more vinegar if needed. Add cabbage and carrots. Toss.

3. Heat butter in a medium-small skillet on medium heat. Add raisins and cook until soft and golden brown, about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add warm raisins to the slaw and toss well. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

Source: Adapted from “Town Country” by Geoffrey Zakarian (Clarkson Potter, $37.50)

Cooking question? Contact Cathy Thomas at [email protected]

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