Jay Bharat may well be the single busiest restaurant in the tasty heart of Artesia’s Little India. Just a few minutes before closing on a recent rainy Sunday night, every seat at every table was occupied. A crowd waited for takeout orders. The air was filled with conversation in a multitude of Indian dialects. And the tables were piled with shiny aluminum trays, out of which diners fed on a world of mostly small Indian dishes.

For me, the signature way of eating at Jay Bharat is to order the thalis — multidish trays that I’ve always thought of as the Indian version of Japanese bento boxes. There are four pre-set thalis on the menu — ranging from the abbreviated Mini Thali at $16.99, through the full-sized Gujarati Thal, Kathyawadi Thali and Punjabi Thali, at $22.99 each.

The Gujarati is described as “vibrant”; the Kathyawadi as “bold and rustic”; the Punjabi as “rich, bold, comforting.” The Mini is “compact yet satisfying.” The descriptions are fitting. The tastes are so myriad, it’s easy to lose track of what dish you’re eating. You come away from the thalis feeling, indeed, satisfied and comforted. You may not know your masala khichadi from your creamy kadhi. But you know you can’t wait to do it again.

Jay Bharat (3 stars; 18701 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia; 562-924-3310; www.jaybharat.com) is a restaurant with a history proudly illustrated in a mural that takes up a whole wall. We’re told Jay Bharat dates back to 1985, when “Ushaben and Nayanaben embarked on a journey to recreate the flavors of their homeland, India, despite being over 8,500 miles away…

“They began making traditional Indian snacks at home, with Bharatbhai selling them to fellow Indians and clients in the local community. … Within two years, their passion for authentic Indian cuisine led them to open a restaurant that aimed to cater to the needs of the growing Indian immigrant population in America…”

Forty years since they began, Jay Bharat has restaurants here in Artesia, and in Northern California in the city of Newark. They have a catering facility as well in Pico Rivera — in what used to be an Eastman Kodak factory. They are as well known for their various Gujarati sweets and pastries as for their thali platters. And they’re also known for highlighting two similar, but also dissimilar styles of Indian cooking — one side of the menu is “Homestyle,” the other side is “Streetstyle.”

“Homestyle” cooking is defined, somewhat generally, as “comforting, everyday dishes like lentil dals, simple vegetable stir-fries (bhaji), flavorful curries (chicken, paneer), and fresh flatbreads (roti/kulcha), emphasizing fresh ingredients, layered spices, and often a balanced meal with rice or bread…”

“Streetstyle” is the quick and easy-to-eat bites sold by “vendors at every intersection … from samosa to chaat and dosa to pav bhaji … not expensive, making it available and accessible to everyone … humble food for the common person.”

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We’re told on the history wall that “before opening their first location in Artesia, Chandrakantbhai and Ushaben returned to India to learn and bring back famous street food items from their hometown. … When the restaurant finally opened, they proudly offered a small yet fulfilling menu that reflected the traditional flavors of a village-style Indian meal.”

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And over the years, even more fulfilling … and very much not so small. And honestly, for me at least, many of the homestyle dishes seem as portable and finger-friendly as the street-style dishes. Homestyle is where you’ll find all the breads, 10 in total — roti and naan and puri and kulcha, some with garlic, some with cheese, some with onions and chilies. I could make a meal of the bread alone.

And some of them reappear on the street-style side — the puri filled with spiced potatoes, chickpeas and chutney; crispy samosas in chickpea curry; the samosas done four ways, including Italian, with spinach, artichokes and cheeses. And the dosa crêpes come nine ways. (I love the one with the pungent garlic chutney.)

It can all be overwhelming. It is overwhelming, unless you grew up in India — and perhaps even then. Which is what the thalis are for. Jay Bharat decides for you. They decide very well.

And, since you’re probably wondering (I know I was), “Jay Bharat” is not a person. It’s a patriotic slogan that expresses devotion to India. There’s nobody named “Jay Bharat” working here. But you can taste the devotion in every dish.

Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com. 

Jay Bharat

Rating: 3 stars
Address: 18701 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia
Information: 562-924-3310; www.jaybharat.com
Cuisine: The busiest restaurant in Little India, a sprawling room with many long tables and many large groups enjoying the pleasures of breads, chaats and thalis. The very heart of Artesia.
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday
Details: Tea; no reservations
Menu: Homestyle: 8 Appetizers ($6.99-$7.99), 10 Breads ($1-$7.49), 11 “Light Meals” ($6.49-$10.49), 4 Thali ($16.99-$22.99); Streetstyle: 6 Appetizers ($7.49-$9.99), 7 “Quick Fix” ($8.49-$9.99), 5 Chaats ($7.49-$8.99), 11 “Southern Staples” ($8.49-$12.99)
Credit cards: MC, V
What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.)

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