Every cruise line from the value-minded mainstream category to the exorbitant ultra-luxury level says that after safety, Job No. 1 is service. Some companies think that once-a-day housekeeping qualifies while others scoff at providing anything less than a full-time butler.
But no matter what echelon of cruising you choose, one thing rarer than getting screaming-fast internet is an after-dinner knock on your cabin door by a crew member. Should that ever happen, the unexpected person through the peephole is probably from engineering or, during the pandemic, the medical team out of concern that you either have COVID-19 or were in close contact with someone who does.
Fernandina Island is home to large colonies of marine iguanas that are found only in the Galapagos. (Photo by David Dickstein)
So, what a surprise it was to open my stateroom door around 9 at night and see the head waiter standing before me with a smile on his face and something shiny and steamy in his hands. After apologizing for the intrusion, he said that hearing a raspy voice at dinner compelled him to bring me an ancient remedy made of twice-filtered hot water, freshly shredded ginger, mint leaves, honey and other ingredients indigenous to the Galapagos Islands, our enviable address for the week. The Ecuadorian elixir worked like a charm, aiding in a good night’s rest and a more enjoyable early-morning kayak adventure off Santiago Island.
The place was the same, but the differences couldn’t have been more vast between my first visit to the Galapagos on Ecoventura and a recent return to this bucket-list destination not quite three years later on Lindblad Expeditions. From the staff and naturalists to the dining and accommodations, Lindblad’s National Geographic Islander II super-yacht excelled almost without exception while Ecoventura, which also claims to be a luxury expedition brand, fell down hard on hospitality, safe food storage, maintenance and guides on and off the MV Theory, its flagship with less than half the number of staterooms as the Islander II, the newest member of Lindblad’s fleet.
A collapsed caldera off Isabela Island offers close encounters with green sea turtles. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Ecoventura and Lindblad are among 20 or so companies that operate luxury motor yachts and cruise ships in the Galapagos, home of some of the most astonishing animals and terrain in the world and, due to strict regulations, is visited by fewer than 280,000 people annually. And that’s a good thing as with expedition cruises, the fewer bodies the better. Making human friends isn’t as easy, but seeing nature friends is. And isn’t that why people go to the Galapagos in the first place? A shorter passenger list is an added benefit for less-nimble guests who are expected to maneuver from vessel to Zodiac and then Zodiac to landing (wet and dry, depending on the schedule), only to do it all again in reverse order after hiking, snorkeling or kayaking for several hours.
Lindblad had the process down to a science while National Geographic brought the science for guests on the recent 8-day “Wild Galapagos Escape” itinerary. The 44 passengers on this particular voyage, four shy of capacity, experienced well-run landings led by native Galapaguenian guides who in a nanosecond can identify the gender of an animal, differentiate a baby land iguana from a lava lizard and even coax a flamboyance of flamingoes into coming closer to a group of humans.
American flamingo on Rabida Island in the Galapagos. (Photo by David Dickstein)
With nearly 200 years of exploration in their combined DNA, Lindblad and National Geographic strutted their stuff like the tall pink birds in other impressive ways. The naturalists’ lectures were excellent prep work for the next day’s adventures. The one on Charles Darwin and his near-200-year-old, Galapagos-inspired Theory of Evolution was particularly relevant. Sites, schedules, equipment, craft, gear and communication for landings, snorkeling and kayaking were superb.
Time spent at each location had zero waste; if a sea lion pup was nursing along a trail or a bale of loggerhead turtles was within swimming distance or a pod of more than 300 common dolphins was jumping and splashing about nearby, the captain and crew got us as up-close and personal as the overseeing Galapagos National Park allowed.
Fernandina Island is home to large colonies of marine iguanas that are found only in the Galapagos. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Because of the physical demands and unpredictability inherent with visiting Mother Nature’s global galleries, luxury expedition cruises have a duty to provide a higher level of personal care than your typical ocean and river voyage. A CrossFitting millennial isn’t your average passenger, after all. Ecoventura forgot this on a previous cruise; a naturalist completely disregarded requests to slow down on a rocky trail, causing some in her group to retreat back to the ship less than a third of the way. When told she might be the only guide to ever diss guests who are unable to keep up, she snipped, “There’s always a first time.”
What a difference a cruise line makes. When it came to accommodating individual abilities, the alliance of Lindblad, a pioneer in ecotourism and expedition cruising, and National Geographic, a brand synonymous with geographical research, came through in the Galapagos like a soaring blue-footed booby — with flying colors. Passengers lacking the mobility and/or stamina needed to hoof it for an hour or two on rocky terrain were given the option of taking a Zodiac ride instead. Those who preferred not to snorkel were offered glass-bottom boat rides so that they could see what’s below the surface without getting wet. A wonderful touch was scheduling a practice snorkel session off a beach so that guests could gauge their level of comfort a day before our first deep-water snorkel. At no time were people made to feel embarrassed for opting out of strenuous activities. If someone needed medical attention, the full-time doctor made a yacht call.
A Galapagos crab scampers along the rocks at Santiago Island’s Puerto Egas. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The 280-foot, five-deck Islander II and the larger, 96-passenger Endeavor II share duties for Lindblad in the Galapagos. Two of their four total itineraries also go to Peru’s mysterious, must-see Machu Picchu. As for the two that don’t, the “Wild Galapagos Escape” voyage on the smaller Islander II starts at $9,390; the 10-day cruise aboard the higher-capacity Endeavor II runs as low as $7,710. What’s included in the price depends on the ship and itinerary; round-trip airfare was being offered on select dates at press time.
Islander II joined the adventure-seeking armada in August, giving new life to the formerly christened Crystal Esprit that was previously owned by the now-defunct, ultra-luxury Crystal Cruises. The new buyer immediately installed an HVAC system, furnishings and fixtures, and expanded the vessel’s marina during her second major refurbishment in five years. No wonder that after four owners and five names in 33 years, the Islander II looks as fresh as a Galapagos cutleaf daisy.
Dinners on the National Geographic Islander II are mostly served in the stylish Yacht Club. (Photo by David Dickstein)
The craft’s public areas are classy and cozy. The Cove lounge is where passengers gather for predinner briefings with cocktails and canapes; the al fresco Patio Café is the place for breakfast buffets and full-service lunches; the elegant Yacht Club restaurant is where most dinners are served. A science station, boutique, fitness center and pool (unheated) are welcome amenities, tiny as they are, as is the provision of a wellness specialist who works wonders in a dedicated massage room stocked only with local products.
The Islander II galley makes a winning yellow pepper potato pie. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Lunch and dinner menus often feature Ecuadorian fare, though with middling success. While some of the galley’s missteps are due to regulations imposed by the Galapagos National Park — pork loin must be precooked before brought onboard and red meat can only be sourced from the islands — too many dishes served on the cruise came to the table tepid, dry or bland. The Galapaguenian spiny lobster, beef tenderloin and yellow pepper potato pie were hits, however, as were the desserts, ceviches and regional wine tasting, a Lindblad tradition. Who knew that Ecuador made wine, let alone good wine?
The spacious San Cristobal Suite is one of four Island Suites that offer 515 square feet of luxury on Lindblad’s super-yacht. (Photo by David Dickstein)
Lindblad advertises the Islander II as an all-suite yacht. That’s debatable as only four units have a separate bedroom and living area. These homey Island Suites measure 515 square feet; the Santa Cruz Suite can connect with a standard unit to sleep as many as six. The other cabins, while large at 280 square feet, are single-area rooms furnished with a king bed that can be split into two twins, a full-size sofa, desk/vanity area, large picture windows and ample closet space. The decently sized bathroom features a double-sink marble vanity, walk-in shower and the cutest soap dish ever in the form of a squishy black Zodiac. Yes, they’re sold in the gift shop. Keeping cabins fresh are thrice-daily housekeeping and a mud room adjacent to the marina with individual storage for what’s wet and odorous.
A Galapagos sea lion at sunset on Rabida Island. (Photo by David Dickstein)
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Along for the ride on every Lindblad-National Geographic voyage is a dynamic expedition team of professional photographers, marine biologists, historians and naturalists who do right by guests and the islands’ incredible plant, animal and mineral inhabitants that coexist on land, underwater, in the air and sometimes all three. The giant tortoise, sea lion, blue-footed booby, marine iguana and Darwin’s famous finches are among the more fascinating and accessible nature friends found on every equator-crossing itinerary.
Lindblad-National Geographic’s fleet of 15 expedition ships sails to more than 40 destinations from the Arctic to Antarctica and in both hemispheres. More information can be found at expeditions.com.