Jews the world over are preparing for an oil crisis, but I don’t mean prices at the pump.
Hanukkah, which begins at sundown Sept. 18, commemorates the victory in 164 B.C.E. of Judah and the Maccabees over the Syrian-Greeks and the rededication of the desecrated temple. As legend has it, Judah and his followers found only enough oil to last one day, but miraculously it lasted eight days.
Eastern European Jews, the majority in the U.S., have been celebrating by frying latkes (pancakes) ever since. While potato latkes are most (deliciously) common, Shannon Sarna, author of “Modern Jewish Comfort Food” (Countryman Press, $30), likes to shake it up with unusual ingredients, such as the beet and carrot latkes featured here.
“While potato latkes are my classic favorite, these brightly hued beet and carrot latkes are a close second,” she writes.
I caught up with Sarna at the Merage Jewish Community Center in Irvine last week as she demonstrated Israeli date and walnut swirl cookies from her cookbook. The event was part of the JCC’s cookbook luncheon series, and the vegetarian meal, expertly prepared by Chef Liron Regev, made me eager to tear into the cookbook and try more.
On Jan. 17, the JCC will host a dinner with Deb Perelman with recipes from her cookbook “Smitten Kitchen Keepers.” Call 949-435-3400 for more information and ask to be put on the mailing list.
“I’m just a gal who likes to eat. I’m a home cook,” admitted Sarna, whose demo style is relaxed and approachable, just like the recipes in the book. She especially treasures recipes passed down from her bubbe (grandma).
“These recipes are very beloved comfort food for me. One smell transports me to her house in Yonkers,” she said. “Those recipes connect us to our history, to the stories of our past.”
“Modern Jewish Comfort Food” boasts a whole chapter on latkes, including herb zucchini potato latkes, cheese latkes, smoked salmon latkes eggs benedict, corn zucchini latkes and sephardic leek patties, as well as tips for making the perfect bite.
Sarna is the editor of the popular Jewish food blog “The Nosher” and is known for her nontraditional challah recipes. Her first cookbook was “Modern Jewish Baker.”
With “Modern Jewish Comfort Food,” Sarna offers recipes for classic dishes from kugel to kreplach, but adds some Israeli favorites, such as a whole chapter on shakshuka, the popular poached egg dish in various sauces. You’ll find Syrian and Georgian dumplings and pastries and a wealth of sweets as well.
“The story of Jewish comfort food goes something like this,” she writes. “We were poor, we didn’t have a lot, so we threw what scraps we had together, and the result was delicious.”
Sabbath services on Dec. 23, the sixth night of Hanukkah, will feature candle lighting at North Orange County synagogues.
In addition, the Pacific District of Women of Reform Judaism’s Zoom Hanukkah presentation yesterday may be viewed at online at wrjpacific.org. It includes a latke demonstration by Gina Bedak of Arizona from the “WRJ Pacific District Favorite Family Recipes” cookbook and Evelyn Bell of Fullerton demonstrating how to make beeswax Hanukkah candles, which can be found on Youtube. To purchase the cookbook go to wrjpacific.org.
Jim Drummond is a longtime Yorba Linda resident. He gives his opinion on local issues weekly. Send e-mail to [email protected].
Beet And Carrots Latkes
From Shannon Sarna, author of “Modern Jewish Comfort Food;” the yield is 16 to 24 latkes
Ingredients:
2 medium beets, peeled
1 large carrot, peeled
1 medium russet potato, peeled
2 large eggs
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, plus more for garnish
1 to 2 teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more for sprinkling
Vegetable oil for frying
Method:
1. Cut beets and carrots in half. In 3 or 4 batches, run beets, carrots, and potatoes through food processor to coarsely grate. Alternatively, grate coarsely by hand.
2. Place grated vegetables in large bowl. Add eggs, flour, thyme, and salt.
3. Heat around 1/4 cup vegetable oil in large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Form bite-size mounds of vegetable mixture, taking care not to squeeze out too much liquid. Fry until browned and crispy on each side, then place on wire rack on top of baking sheet to cool. Immediately sprinkle with pinch of salt.
4. Serve warm with applesauce, sour cream, and some additional fresh thyme for garnish.