Greg Long spends most of the year searching the globe for mountains of water he can surf down.

But the San Clemente big-wave surfer is taking a break this week from chasing building-size swells and is back in his hometown to share the stoke with the next generation of wave riders.

Long, who grew up in Orange County’s southernmost surf town, will be the guest speaker Wednesday, June 8, for a role model series hosted by the San Clemente Junior Lifeguard Foundation and the Surfing Heritage and Culture Center.

San Clemente surfer Greg Long, known for his big-wave surf skills, will be speaking at a “Role Model” series event at the Surfing Heritage and Culture Center on June 8, 2022. Long, seen here, at home with his surfboards in 2012. (File photo by Eugene Garcia, SCNG)

It’s the first time in two years the event will be held – it’s been timed for just before kids start to hit the beach.

“We love the fact we’re doing it as a kickoff to summer,” organizer Greg Hulzer, a board member with the foundation, said. “Right when junior guards are getting going and surf camps and everyone is going to the beach.”

Long isn’t just a local legend, but is an inspiring surfer and Patagonia ambassador known around the world who young kids can look up to in and out of the water, Hulzer said.

Growing up, like many young surf groms, Long competed in the National Scholastic Surfing Association and was a rising star on the amateur competition circuit. He claimed the NSSA National Men’s Open Title in 2001.

But for Long, chasing big waves around the globe was more enticing than the grind of the regular competition circuit. He quickly became one of the best among a handful who brave monstrous surf.

In the water, his first big contest win was at Dungeons in South Africa in 2003, followed by Mavericks in Northern California in 2008 and the prestigious Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay the following year.

San Clemente surfer Greg Long, known for his big-wave surf skills, will be speaking at a “Role Model” series event at the Surfing Heritage and Culture Center on June 8, 2022. Here in 2009, Long reacts to hearing he beat out Kelly Slater to win the prestigious Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau big wave surf contest on the North Shore at Waimea Bay, Hawaii. (File photo: MICHAEL GOULDING/SCNG)

Long is among the winningest surfers at the XXL Big Wave Awards, an annual event that gives accolades for accomplishments in death-defying riding, and he’s been crowned the World Surf League Big Wave World Champion twice, first in 2012 and again in 2015.

But with big reward comes big risks.

In 2012, Long was nearly killed in a brutal wipeout at Cortes Bank, a remote surf break in the Pacific Ocean. He couldn’t breathe as he battled the sea’s relentless beating, wave after wave pounding him and tossing him around underwater.

He blacked out just as a safety team reached him.

Long woke up spewing up blood and vomit. He vowed to never return to that surf spot, once touted as one of his favorite places to take on monster waves.

“I felt in a way, that my confidence was left out there in the ocean,” he said at the time in an interview with the Orange County Register. Cortes Bank sits 100 miles from San Diego and 50 miles southwest of San Clemente Island.

But a year later, he returned to face his fears.

“The lesson of it all? Enjoy the ride. Enjoy the whole experience, the ups and downs,” he said at the time. “There’s beauty to be found in every single moment, especially the challenging ones, the ones that can create heartache and vulnerability. Those are the most beautiful of your life, the ones you are going to grow from.”

Attendees Wednesday will not just walk away in awe of Long, Hulzer said, but will be “energized with a new commitment to really live their life with exuberance and meaning, like Greg does.”

“The message he will bring to the kids and the families will be about planning and preparation, safety, believing in yourself, recovering from setbacks and how to get back on your feet,” Hulzer said.

Prior to Long’s talk, San Clemente lifeguards will give an ocean safety presentation. The event is free and starts at 4:30 p.m, but space is limited and registration is required at scljgfoundation.com. 

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