The arugula makes it sound fancy, but the cheeseburger at Oak in Laguna Beach is quite traditional: Swiss cheese, pickles, caramelized onion and a “secret sauce.” There are two secret sauces, really. One is a classic Thousand Island-style sauce. The other tastes remarkably like A1, or at least that’s what registers in my mind. I haven’t touched a bottle of A1 in years, but now I’m thinking I need to go out and buy some immediately. The meat patty is made from fatty wagyu beef, probably one-third of a pound. It is gloriously drippy. 

The cheeseburger and fries at Oak in Laguna (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

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Even though lettuce is overrated I still balk when I see arugula on a burger. I don’t know why. I actually love arugula. I like everything about this burger. 

It’s slightly bigger than what I can comfortably squeeze into my mouth. That’s just the way it should be, as long as the bun is soft enough to change shapes. This sesame seed bun on this thing is as soft and pliable as cotton candy. 

A good burger should be at least a little bit daunting. This one meets that test. Fear the size, but not the arugula. You’ll need extra napkins for this, or maybe even a wet towel.  

Oak

Where: 1100 S. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach

When: Lunch and dinner daily

Cost: $19

Phone: 949-940-3010

Online: oak-lagunabeach.com

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