Sunday, March 20 marks the official start of spring. It won’t be long before the marketplace shows off the season’s produce bounty, with large verdant displays of asparagus and artichokes. These versatile vegetables are delicious in a wide variety of dishes, and I have included three of my favorites here. But first, some tips for buying and storing these harbingers of springtime.
Asparagus: Choose stalks that are about the same size for even cooking. Tips should be tightly closed. Color can be green, purple, or white, depending on the variety. Make sure the color is not faded. Plan on using within 3 days of purchase, stored unwashed in plastic bag in crisper drawer without anything weighty stored on top.
Artichokes: Look for those that are tightly closed, compact and feel heavy for their size. Avoid overmature, open artichokes, or those with firm tips and dry-looking leaves. Refrigerate unwashed in plastic bag in crisper drawer up to 6 days.
Asparagus with Crispy Bacon Croutons and Green Dressing
I nabbed this lovely asparagus recipe from Chef Jamie Oliver’s newest cookbook, “Together” (Flatiron Books, $35). It’s a dish that is delicious hot, room temp or cold. I don’t think I’ll make croutons for non-vegetarian dishes any other way in the future, browning the bread cubes while simultaneously cooking thin strips of bacon. Delicious.
Yield: 8 servings (can serve 4 as a main course)
INGREDIENTS
2 green onions, roots trimmed
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch Italian parsley, divided use
2 tablespoons water, plus more if needed
4 slices of bacon
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch of ground black pepper
1 cup packed 1/2-inch cubes sourdough bread
2 pounds fresh asparagus, tough ends cut off or broken off
8 large eggs
PROCEDURE
1. Coarsely chop green tops of green onions and place in blender (high speed blender preferred). Cut white part of green onions into thin slices and set aside to use as garnish. Add to blender, mustard, vinegar, and oil. Twist and tear 3/4 of parsley leaves and delicate stems from the bunch, leaving thick leaves behind; add to blender. Add 2 tablespoons water and turn on blender. Whirl until pureed. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed (most likely it will need salt), adding a little more water if it is too thick; whirl again. Set aside.
2. Prepare bacon croutons: Cut bacon crosswise into narrow strips. Put a large skillet on medium heat and add 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil plus a pinch of pepper. Add bacon and bread cubes. Cook 10 to 15 minutes until golden and crisp, tossing frequently. Set aside.
3. Divide dressing, placing 3/4 in a large bowl and the rest in a smaller bowl ready for drizzling. Cook asparagus in large pan of boiling water for 3 minutes, or until just tender. Use tongs to transfer asparagus to large bowl; toss to coat.
4. Gently lower eggs into a pan of boiling water that contains a pinch of salt (I use a large, slotted spoon to lower them in and take them out). Cook for 6 1/2 minutes. Drain; cool and peel under cold running water.
5. Divide asparagus between 8 plates (or 4 plates if used as entrée). Cut peeled eggs in half and place next to asparagus, cut side up. Spoon more dressing over the asparagus. Sprinkle on croutons and bacon. Garnish with sliced white part of green onions and small sprigs of parsley.
Source: Adapted from “Together” by Jamie Oliver (Flatiron Books, $35)
Roasted artichokes are delicious topped with lemon vinaigrette. This dish is a good choice for springtime entertaining, since most of the preparation can be done in advance. (Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen)
Roasted Artichokes with Lemon Vinaigrette
Roasted artichokes are scrumptious topped with a lemon-rich vinaigrette. If thinking about springtime entertaining, they are a good choice because most of the preparation can be done in advance. They are delicious served hot or at room temperature.
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
3 lemons, divided use
4 artichokes (8 to 10 ounces each)
9 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
1 small garlic clove, minced into a paste
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
PROCEDURE
1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Cut 1 lemon in half, squeeze halves into container filled with 2 quarts water, then add spent halves. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, trim stem to about 1/4 inch and cut off top quarter of artichoke. Break off bottom 3 or 4 rows of outer leaves by pulling them downward. Using kitchen shears, trim off top portion of outer leaves. Using paring knife, trim outer layer of stem and base, removing any dark green parts. Cut artichoke in half lengthwise, then remove fuzzy choke and any tiny inner, purple-tinged leaves using a small spoon. Submerge prepped artichokes in lemon water.
2. Coat bottom of 9-by-13-inch baking dish with 1 tablespoon oil. Remove artichokes from lemon water, shaking off excess water. Toss artichokes with 2 tablespoons oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt and pinch of pepper; gently rub oil and seasoning between leaves. Arrange artichokes cut side down in prepared dish. Trim ends of remaining 2 lemons, half crosswise, and arrange cut side up next to artichokes in dish. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and roast until cut side of artichokes begin to brown and bases and leaves are tender when poked with top of paring knife, 25 to 30 minutes.
3. Transfer artichokes to serving platter. Let lemons cool slightly, then squeeze into a fine-mesh strainer set over bowl, extracting as much juice and pulp as possible; press firmly on solids to yield 1 1/2 tablespoons juice. Whisk parsley, garlic, mustard and 1/2 teaspoon salt into juice. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in remaining 6 tablespoons oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve artichokes with dressing spooned over the top.
Source: “Vegetables Illustrated” from America’s Test Kitchen (America’s Test Kitchen, $40)
This Asapragus-Lemon Quiche is made in a tart pan. (Photo by Cathy Thomas)
Asparagus-Lemon Quiche
If you’re looking for a deep-dish quiche that serves as a hardy entrée, this isn’t what you’re looking for. This tasty dish is made in a tart pan, the type that is less than an inch high. It would be a welcome addition as part of a picnic menu, or as a starter. What it lacks in volume it makes up for in vibrant flavors. A thin slice of lemon is cut into slivers and added, peel and all, to the mix. Sour cream comes to the party, too. The quiche is best eaten the day it is baked, but leftovers can be refrigerated (and are delicious).
Yield: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
One sheet store-bought refrigerated pie dough
6 medium- to large-stalks asparagus, tough ends cut or broken off
1 1/2 teaspoons butter
2 small shallots or 1 large shallot, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
One 1/4-inch-thick slice of lemon (including peel), cut into slivers
2 large eggs
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
1/3 cup sour cream
1/4 cup mixed fresh herbs, such as chives and tarragon
Optional: 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese
PROCEDURE
1. Adjust oven rack to center position and heat to 375 degrees. Place a 9- to 9 1/2-inch tart pan (I use the kind with a removable bottom) on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Ease the pie dough into pan and prick the bottom with a fork. Trim top even with pan’s rim. Fit a piece of parchment or foil against crust and fill with raw rice or beans or pie weights. Bake 15 to 20 minutes. Remove parchment and weights; bake 4 minutes.
2. Bring a large skillet half-full of salted water to boil on high heat. Add asparagus and cook about 3 minutes, or until just barely tender. Do not overcook. Drain in colander and run under cold water. Pat dry.
3. Cut off asparagus tips, making the pieces about 3 inches long; slice each in half lengthwise. Cut remaining asparagus into 1/2-inch pieces. Wipe out skillet.
4. Put skillet on medium heat and add butter; when melted, add shallots, and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Scrape into crust, spreading evenly. Add small asparagus pieces and lemon slivers.
5. In bowl, whisk eggs, cream, sour cream, and herbs until blended. Season with salt (about 1/4 teaspoon) and pepper, then pour into crust (still on rimmed baking sheet). Arrange asparagus tips, cut side down, on top of filling. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, sprinkling on Parmesan if using, after 20 minutes. The quiche is done when the custard is set and puffed — and a tester comes out clean. Serve when just warm or has come to room temp.
Source: “Baking With Dorie” by Dorie Greenspan (Houghton Mifflin, $35)
Cooking question? Contact Cathy Thomas at [email protected]
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