The only thing spreading faster through Orange County than COVID-19 is birria. And while I’m still trying my best to avoid the former, I’m here to inhale as much of the latter as I can. 

The latest taqueria to join the birria revolution is Tacos el Jefe, which recently opened in Stanton and specializes in both beef and goat versions, which get stuffed into all manner of tacos, mulitas and quesadillas. 

More from Brad A. Johnson

The 50 best places to eat tacos in Orange County
Go for the off-menu pozole, stay for the Latin jazz
The 10 best new restaurants in Orange County in 2021
Orange County’s 20 best dishes of 2021, ranked
When readers critique the critic, 2021 edition

The tacos dorados (crispy tacos) are outstanding, except by design these are not very crispy. They are more of a hybrid between traditional crunchy shells and those trendy birria-soaked tortillas that have recently become all the rage. They are crisp in parts but mostly just tender and full of flavor. It’s a beautiful compromise. I still have my teeth, but even if I didn’t I could happily order these dorados again.

Given the choice between goat or beef, I’m usually going to choose the latter. And the beef here is heavenly. It is fattier and (thus) more succulent than most. But also a bit oily in the best way possible. 

The broth — or consommé in birria-speak — served alongside in a styrofoam cup is slicked with a layer of bright-orange chile oil, a glorious byproduct of that fatty beef stewing all day with dried red chiles. Beneath that shimmery surface, the broth is luscious and pulpy, as if the ladle that scooped this serving plunged deep into the pot, scraping the bottom to dredge all the loose ends that had broken free, along with flecks of garlic, onion and chile skins. 

This broth alone makes an incredible soup, something to keep in mind as we continue to weather the pandemic. 

Tacos El Jefe

Where: 7006 Katella Ave., Stanton

When: Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily

Phone: 714-622-4005

Online: instagram.com/tacos_jefe1

Related Articles