Brunch at Perla Azul in La Habra is a prix fixe multi-course affair with bottomless mimosas and live music, but I don’t realize this until after the hostess seats me at a prime booth beneath a large crystal chandelier with an unobstructed view of the stage where a Cuban jazz band, Los Vecinos, is mid-set under the spotlights. The singer, Vanessa Mardueño, has a sharp, sorrowful voice that pierces the room and reminds me of Carla Morrison. The bongo player has alarmingly fast hands. These guys are good. 

My mind races as I glance around and realize I’ve stumbled not into a “restaurant” but rather a fancy live music club. Tabletops are cluttered with pastries and mimosas and eggs and everything feels so festive. Everyone else clearly planned for this while I did not. 

I hate to admit it, but I have never been a fan of bottomless mimosas. And I’m really not in the mood for a huge brunch today. I feel like I might have made a mistake coming here without doing more research first. The waiter senses my apprehension.  

Pork and red chile pozole at Perla Azul in La Habra, an off-menu special during weekend brunch (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

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“We have pozole,” he says, leaning in, trying not to raise his voice but needing to be heard over the music. “It’s not on that menu, but if you don’t want the full brunch, I can get you pozole, menudo, birria…” 

“Pozole sounds perfect,” I say. “And a michelada, please?” 

Moments later a large bowl of pozole is on my table and I don’t even realize it because my eyes have been transfixed on the band. But I suddenly smell the broth and look down to see it. This is exactly what I was hoping for: deeply flavorful pork broth infused with dried red chiles (deeply spiced but not dangerously spicy), loaded with hominy and tender lumps of pork butt, served with shredded cabbage, onion radishes and fried corn tortillas. I’m already on my second michelada and I’m wondering, “How come bottomless micheladas have never become a thing?”  

Perla Azul

Where: 151 W. Whittier Blvd., La Habra

When: Dinner, Tuesday-Sunday; brunch, weekends

Cost: Pozole $14, brunch only

Phone: 562-448-3298

Online: perlaazullahabra.com

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